Greetings Everyone,
I'm still not finished with you guys, here you go with another important article about Fire Escape Maintenance from The Cooperator www.cooperator.com . I amended the article from 1700 words to about 800 words for those of you, who just want the advice or tips fed to you in bite size amounts. If you want to read up on the full article just follow this link http://cooperator.com/articles/2397/1/Fire-Escape/Page1.html
Fire Escape
By J.M. Wilson
Local Law 11 began life in 1980 as Local Law 10, which
required five-year inspections of the street-facing façades of buildings seven
stories or higher. Local Law 11 of 1998 is a slightly updated version that now mandates
the inspection of all façades, whether or not they are facing the street. Local
Law 11 also requires scaffolding with each inspection, a report on the cause of
any deterioration, and a timetable for repair.
Upon inspection buildings are
classified as "Safe," "Unsafe," or "Safe with a Repair
and Maintenance Program" (SWARMP).
“Every five years, an engineer or architect performing the
Local Law 11 facade inspection on your building should look for any unsafe
conditions on the fire escapes,” says Peter Varsalona, P.E., who is principal
with RAND. “Considered unsafe,” he says, “are any items or debris on the fire
escape, such as flower pots, blocks or bricks (often used to secure window air
conditioners), personal items, or anything that could fall from the fire escape
or obstruct egress.”
Overall maintenance of your fire escape is relatively
inexpensive as most of the work can be done by your established maintenance
team. According to Larry Kaufman, fourth-generation head of the family-owned J.
Kaufman Iron Works, founded in 1907, “ninety percent of the metal work in New
York is steel or wrought iron.” This includes your fire escapes.
The bad news is steel and wrought iron is prone to rusting
and therefore requires constant vigilance by the building’s maintenance crew.
“As soon as the rust starts,” warns Kaufman, “it’s like a cancer. When you see
something that’s really old and has been neglected and is rusted, it almost
peels away in your hands. Once it starts doing that, you’re done. The cost to
fix it gets way up there.”
However the good news is that steel and wrought iron are
relatively easy to maintain. These are two materials that on-site maintenance
staff can care for without extensive training, and do not require a
professional for maintenance.
For Kaufman the trick is regular painting. “Whoever
maintains your building, just let them take a wire brush and knock off anything
loose and peeling and put on another coat of paint,” says Kaufman. “If
continually painted, whether it’s on an annual basis, or semiannual, it will
last forever.”
“If the fire escape
has been painted over several times and the underlying paint wasn't properly
removed,” says Stephen Varone, AIA, president of RAND Engineering & Architecture,
P.C. in New York City, “then sections of it may have to be scraped down to the
bare metal. The metal is typically cleaned with a power washer and dried, and
then a rust-inhibitive primer and enamel-based paint are applied. To keep the
fire escape in uniform condition, it's recommended that the whole assembly be
painted at one time rather than just portions of it.”
According to Cisco Meneses, owner and founder of Fire Escape
Services, which provides services nationwide, rust is definitely a major
problem but structure is another. “One must look for structural cues that say
whether or not this structure also needs refurbishment,” he says. More often
than not it’s as simple as the bolts. “With every fire escape out there,” says
Meneses, “if you want to know its age—look at the bolts. If it has a square
head bolt or a rivet it’s 50 to 75 years or older. If it has a hex head bolt on
it then it is 25 to 50 years. How easy is it now to see if the fire escape has
original hardware on it or if it’s been refurbished? It’s just the bolt. It’s
that simple.”
The lesson here: that if you have a fire escape with nothing
but original hardware your building is definitely due for more than just a coat
of paint. According to Varsalona, fire escape repairs beyond scraping, and
painting, are relatively simple consisting of mainly tightening loose bolts and
minor welding “The most critical elements are the steel beams or angles that
penetrate the building wall and provide structural support for the fire escape.
If they show signs of wear, they may need a supporting angle or reinforcing
plate welded to them for added support.”
“If the steel is badly deteriorated,” Peter Varsalona, P.E.,
who is principal with RAND says, “the beams will need to be removed and
replaced with new ones, which requires removing the brickwork or masonry around
the joints where they penetrate the wall. All joints around penetrations should
be caulked to keep water out. Not only will water corrode the beams and loosen
the fire escape's supporting members but it will also damage the brickwork and
allow leaks to find their way into the building. Loose steps, railings, platform
slats, handrails, and other metal pieces should likewise be bolted or welded as
necessary.”
Looking forward to hearing from you and committed to give you a Great Buying Experience
Sincerely
Pinny Ziegler
Pinny Ziegler
pinnysthoughts@gmail.com